Bois Bubert is mostly owned by the
Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge. It's a big island, over 1,000 acres, close to shore, and we hoped circumnavigation would make for an interesting trip.
We began from the Steuben Town Launch just after 9AM, just before high tide. We decided to follow the island counterclockwise, guessing tidal effect was more keenly felt in the narrower west side waters.
There are privately owned houses on Bois Bubert, mostly directly across from the Steuben landing. By the houses fields run down to the beach.
The cottages were soon passed, and gently sloping grass gave way to rock. We enjoyed the dramatic colors of the island, intrusions of various shades of gray amidst the pink granite.
Some seals were hanging out off shore. The young seal seemed to be particularly enjoying the day.
The south end of the island is more prone to lively waters. Though things were pretty calm as we paddled through, we did need to keep an eye out for ledges.
We took a break in Seal Cove, by the available camping area (permission needed ahead of time from the USF&W.) We didn't inspect the camp area, spending our time admiring the variety of granite and other rocks on the beach.
Off in the distance the dark forbidding cliffs of Jordan's Delight towered above the water. On the high island top was a house, which appeared to be the perfect house to witness the power of winter storms, or avoid the zombie apocalypse.
 |
| Jordan's Delight as seen from Seal Cove on Bois Bubert, House is to the right. |
It was an intriguing house, and once we got home we were able to research it. In 1994, a house described as a two story, "grand" mansion of 3,000 square feet, was built high on the cliffs of Jordan's Delight. Some stories note that the house was built in nesting
season, (as if there might be a different season when house building
could occur on an island in Maine), others just note the inappropriateness of the
house. And perhaps the owner came to realize the inappropriateness and impracticality as well, because in 2000 the house and island was put up for sale. Maine Coastal Heritage Trust was able to find a donor to help purchase the island. In a story which received much publicity, (some examples:
Bangor Daily News,
Living on Earth, and
Gulf of Maine Times) the house was removed. Less frequently mentioned was a small house which, along with a few acres, the donor would retain. Maine Coastal Heritage transferred the rest of the island to the National Wildlife Refuge in 2007. Jordan's Delight now serves as a prime nesting areas for one of my favorite Alcids, the black guillemot.
So the remaining structure must be the smaller house, also two stories, available for the owner's use outside bird nesting time. It still must have an amazing view, but it seems to be a bit wanting in maintenance (sorry for the poor definition - photo taken with our new high-zoom camera from almost 2 miles away)...
Leaving the mysteries of Jordan's Delight behind, we continued up the east shore of Bois Bubert, admiring this fascinating square-rocked beach, which we need to explore some day.
And there are a series of small islands between Bois Bubert and Jordan's Delight which should be seen as well.
 |
| Mark by Douglas island |
The northern shore of Bois Bubert has wave created rock piles so sharp edged, it looks like someone piled them by hand.
This yellow legs is one of many birds in the area.
All in all it was a good mix of wildlife, rocks and ocean, and it was certainly helpful to be able land at pretty much any beach we passed. We wouldn't have been able to capture the seal pictures if we hadn't been on shore. We hadn't been here before, but we'll go back to see the rest of the bay.
Details: Launch Steuben Town Landing, no parking on site, limited parking is about a quarter mile away at the Pigeon Hill Preserve. No facilities - either location. Camping is allowed on Bois Bubert with permission from USF&W, day use allowed without permission. (NWR areas only) Launch 9:10AM, high about 9:30AM. Finish 12:30, 8.8 miles including a pass between the Douglas Islands, two stops.
