Bois Bubert and a distant house.

 Bois Bubert is mostly owned by the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge.  It's a big island, over 1,000 acres, close to shore, and we hoped circumnavigation would make for an interesting trip.

  We began from the Steuben Town Launch just after 9AM,  just before high tide.  We decided to follow the island counterclockwise, guessing tidal effect was more keenly felt in the narrower west side waters.

  There are privately owned houses on Bois Bubert, mostly directly across from the Steuben landing.    By the houses  fields run down to the beach.

   The cottages were soon passed, and gently sloping grass gave way to rock.   We enjoyed the dramatic colors of the island, intrusions of various shades of gray amidst the pink granite.

    Some seals were hanging out off shore. The young seal seemed to be particularly enjoying the day.

  The south end of the island is more prone to lively waters.  Though things were pretty calm as we paddled through, we did need to keep an eye out for ledges.

   We took a break in Seal Cove, by the available camping area (permission needed ahead of time from the USF&W.)  We didn't inspect the camp area, spending our time admiring the variety of granite and other rocks on the beach.

  Off in the distance the dark forbidding cliffs of Jordan's Delight  towered above the water.  On the high island top was a house, which appeared to be the perfect house to witness the power of winter storms, or avoid the zombie apocalypse. 

Jordan's Delight as seen from Seal Cove on Bois Bubert, House is to the right.

  It was an intriguing house, and once we got home we were able to research it.   In 1994, a house described as a two story, "grand" mansion of 3,000 square feet, was built high on the cliffs of Jordan's Delight.   Some stories  note that the house was built in nesting season, (as if there might be a different season when house building could occur on an island in Maine), others just note the inappropriateness of the house.  And perhaps the owner came to realize the inappropriateness and impracticality as well, because in 2000 the house and island was put up for sale.  Maine Coastal Heritage Trust was able to find a donor to help purchase the island.  In a story which received much publicity,  (some examples:  Bangor Daily News, Living on Earth,  and Gulf of Maine Times) the house was removed.  Less frequently mentioned was a small house which, along with a few acres,  the donor would retain.  Maine Coastal Heritage transferred the rest of the island to the National Wildlife Refuge in 2007.  Jordan's Delight now serves as a prime nesting areas for one of my favorite Alcids, the black guillemot.

   So the remaining structure must be the smaller house, also two stories, available for the owner's use outside bird nesting time.  It still must have an amazing view, but it seems to be a bit wanting in maintenance (sorry for the poor definition - photo taken with our new high-zoom camera from almost 2 miles away)...

  Leaving the mysteries of Jordan's Delight behind, we continued up the east shore of Bois Bubert, admiring this fascinating square-rocked beach, which we need to explore some day.

   And there are a series of small islands between Bois Bubert and Jordan's Delight which should be seen as well.

Mark by Douglas island

 The northern shore of Bois Bubert has wave created rock piles so sharp edged, it looks like someone piled them by hand.

  This yellow legs is one of many birds in the area.

  All in all it was a good mix of wildlife, rocks and ocean, and it was certainly helpful to be able land at pretty much any beach we passed.  We wouldn't have been able to capture the seal pictures if we hadn't been on shore.  We hadn't been here before, but we'll go back to see the rest of the bay.

Details:  Launch Steuben Town Landing, no parking on site, limited parking is about a quarter mile away at the Pigeon Hill Preserve.  No facilities - either location.  Camping is allowed on Bois Bubert with permission from USF&W, day use allowed without permission. (NWR areas only)  Launch 9:10AM, high about 9:30AM.  Finish 12:30, 8.8 miles including a pass  between the Douglas Islands, two stops.

Castine: Smith Cove with a side visit to a regatta

Here are four highlights of a late July sea kayaking trip at Castine harbor, Maine.

Not much of Middle Ground was showing

The first highlight was arriving at low tide, which put us ten feet closer to the bottom.  Sea stars, crabs and other under water life was clearly visibly, as was Middle Ground, a high spot in the center of a deep channel.

   Our second highlight was visiting the wreck of the Gardiner G Deering on a foggy morning.  A sister ship, the Carroll A Deering was found off Cape Hadaras in 1921 with its sails set and crew missing. The Ghost Ship of the Outer Banks  tells its tale.

Paddling through the inside, seeing more beams below water

   But the Gardiner G Deering met a more prosaic ending.  Built in 1903 and used in the timber trade, it was simply abandoned in the 1930's when shipping via sailing ships was no longer competitive.  After being abandoned, the double hulled vessel was sometimes as a dwelling until the upper levels were burned on July Fourth in the 1940's. 

Nice detail of the iron bars

   Seventy years later, pieces of the Gardiner Deerings double hull's strong timbers remain, intriguing visitors. 

Mill Pond Island (At some tides), taken from the top of the dam

Our third highlight was the charming tide mill pond at the end of Smith Cove, complete with its own island.

Coming up on it at low tide, I could see the dam exterior was just small rocks.  It looked like a simple do it yourself project: build a dam from nearby rock and have free power provided by tides.  But from the top, seeing the 10-15 foot width, made it apparent that this was no simple task, but represented hundreds of hours stacking rocks, not to mention designing the actual mill mechanisms.  This dam once hosted  a saw mill and a grist mill capable of grinding one hundred bushels a day;  it could operate 16 of 24 hours in the day. However, by the time an of  1868 Hydrographic Survey, it was idle.

The current dam, falls to the right

  "Free power" has long intrigued Mainers.  Winnegance, on the Bath river was site of the most tide mills in Maine.  In this issue of the Tide Mill Times, John Goff talks of growing up along the Kennebec River and discovering its history in tide mills. 

And our fourth highlight:    As we came back to the main channel we noticed many sailboats heading out the Bagaduce River to Penobscot Bay.  I wondered for a moment if they might be reenacting great paintings of the Penobscot Expedition Naval disaster (with a retreating cloud bank filling in for flames) which took place July 24-August 12 1779. 

Penobscot Expedition by Dominic Serres

Our view heading out

  But it turns out it was a more festive event, for which many boats and even the sun appeared - the fifteenth Castine Classic Yacht Race, a 19.6 mile race and the first of three day races.  The other two races are the Camden Classic Yacht Race and the Eggemoggin Reach Regatta. Shortly before noon cannon shots began to be fired in the vicinity of the harbor buoy, signalling the start of the event. 

Milling about by the Harbor Buoy (to the left)  Dyces Head is in the background.

Taking off

Several boats in action

Summary:  Launch 9AM from the Castine Town Dock.  Town Facility flush toilets nearby, three hour parking only. (Parking available on lots and side streets in town.)  Low about 9:20 AM, finish about 12:30 PM, down Smith Cove and back, out to Holbrook Island for lunch.
 Castine Kayak operates tours in Castine Harbor.  When we arrived we met a woman who was excited to be heading out on a morning tour.  And when we got back, she was even happier, as she just signed up for a second afternoon tour.   A pretty neat review...

Naskeag Pt to Orono Island - Brooklin Maine

      Sometimes it seems like so long since I've had lunch on an island.  Sat on it's granite shore while noshing on cheese puffs, cheese sticks and carrots.  So when I realized we had nothing scheduled for Sunday, I guarded that day like a pit bull, casting chores and invitations aside and headed to the ocean.

      By 9:20AM we were ready to paddle, launching just behind another couple and headed in the same direction.  Past Smuttynose and Mahoney Ledge before crossing the lobster buoy gardens of Jericho Bay to Opechee. 

   

    From Opechee and Swans Island are many ledges, many seals, more than a couple over-nighting sailboats, two narrow boat channels and at least one picture perfect pocket sized island.

     The shallow waters created bands of turquoise, which alternated with the dark blue.  

     Between the islands laughing gulls practiced their balancing acts. 

     We didn't quite make Swans Island, but instead looped about privately owned Orono Island.  Orono Island, named for Joseph Orono the blue eyed Penobscot Sachem thought to be a grandson of Baron Castine, is a lovely park-like island, surrounded by a huge school of small fish.  All along the shore the fish surrounded us, racing in various directions and, in their haste to flee, occaisionally pushed their schoolmates atop seaweed.  

  From there we paddled about Black Island, alongside Sheep and Pond.  Near Pond, after not seeing any seals for several minutes, a pup popped up beside my boat and stared at me with wide innocent eyes.  I explained to the pup that he should be terrified of kayaks, but he did not listen, popping up a few more times as we moved on.

    I thought we'd stay out all day, but by noon-thirty I'd had more than enough sun, so we headed back to Naskeag, landing shortly after 1PM.   I backed carefully, and a little regretfully, into this view to leave.  

   (Thanks to Durhamblogger for the rear view mirror idea)

   That was Sunday.  Now it's Tuesday, and it seems like so long since I've had lunch on an island....

   Summary:  Launch Naskeag Point, Brooklin.  Busy work launch, easiest to park on Sundays.  Portapottie, gravel launch.   Launch 9:20, about an hour after high, finish 1:15, one break.  11.3 miles.  We did get a chance to go to shore for a pleasant lunch on a MITA island.

Merrimack River

    “Hey, you know you’ve done two miles in 20 minutes.”

     Mark made that observation as we glided along propelled by wind and incoming current.  That’s twice the poking-along speed we average on most scenic trips.  But fortunately, that’s not our maximum speed.   Plus we were riding near the center where current and wind were highest, on the trip back we planned to duck behind islands, and stick closer to shore, where, generally, current is less.

    Merrimack River is one of perhaps a thousand rivers, lakes and bays I’ve driven near and wondered about paddling.  When Trashpaddler posted his story of paddling there in April. I decided to add it to our itinerary. (Trashpaddler referred to Kayak the Merrimack's posting on Cashman Park)   The Lowell boat building company Trashpaddler spoke of was upstream, so that’s where we were headed.

     Cashman Park was a bit confusing.  The paved ramp was roped off, though the rope appeared to be low enough to safely drive over.  Single cars were parked in several spaces labelled for boat trailers only.   Another car was parked right at the ramp.  Nevertheless we parked in a car spot, by the soccer field.

   The wind was noticeable, but the launch was easy and soon we were past the marina, past appealing riverside homes, past the small fishing and bird watching park on Deer Island, and under the I95 bridge, to Lowell’s Boat Shop and the lovely riverside neighborhood of Salisbury Point before turning back.

    Our plans to paddle up the quiet side of Deer Island were squashed when it became obvious that the three construction cranes stretched across the bridge were all in motion, so we went up the channel on the other side.    

   However, thereafter we stuck to the north side, a restful blend of marsh and forest, populated by a variety of fisherman, and one unique log creature.

   And at the end, I felt compelled to take a picture of trash collected gathered by the side of my boat.  Good news, over a year later, you can still gather sewage disks from the Merrimack.

 Summary:  Launch : Cashman Park Newburyport.  Busy launch with a lot of parking.  Portapotties.  Up to Lowell Boat and back behind Carr and Ram islands, about 6 miles.  Launch 12:45, finish 2:45PM (which means our speed back to the ramp was about 2 miles an hour….)

Mystic, CT: Through Time and by Four Bridges

   Looking for a place to entertain a group of widely diverse ages?  Mystic , Connecticut fits the bill.  Mystic Aquarium and Mystic Seaport both have activities and displays aimed at all ages.  Nearby are the Submarine Force Museum (free!), nature trails and beaches.

But beyond the attractions, West Mystic is an attractive town.  Grand Federal and Italianate houses line the upper river.  If you’re out on the Mystic River in the morning, you may see rowing crews practicing. 

     We headed out on the river at 5:00PM, having been delayed by a late lunch/early dinner.  The MysticRiver (Hand Carry) Launch is on  River Road, and from there you can paddle up to a dam further upstream, or downstream past Mystic center to Long Island Sound (and beyond.)  Good news , no no-see-ums bothered us, either at launch or later as we came in.

The trip begins by passing under I-95, and its two closed sprandrel arch bridges.*  We paddled down the west side, clinging to shade, admiring the many fine houses.

     Soon we were at the second bridge, a trebuchet styled drawbridge.* Conveniently located there is the Mystic Drawbridge Ice Cream Café, which unfortunately did not have water side service.

Trebuchet Drawbridge*, Ice Cream Cafe in green, Condominiums in brick

     Lower Mystic has a variety condominiums, both newly built and located in renovated industrial buildings.  Alongside the condominiums, marinas line the shore.

     Most of the marina boats were pleasure craft, but a few fishing vessels had berths, along with this houseboat, which I doubt sees much movement.

     Our next bridge was a full sized Erector Set Train Bridge,*  which rotates on a giant gear below.

    We headed east of Mason Island.  The private aids to navigation in that area seemed to be in different places than noted on the chart.  This is the shallow side of the river, particularly at low tide,  much more carefree than the channel to the west.

    The smallish bridge to island is fixed* with a clearance of 3 feet, so I suspect this area sees little traffic much of the time. 

    Long Island Sound was once again quiet.  We circled round Dodges Island.  Off in the distance Fisher Island (NY) and Latimer Reef Light beckoned, but we’d started too late in the day for that adventure.

    Instead we paddled back, by  deer on Andrews Island, and back through Mystic center. 

     It’s entertaining to paddle by the ships of Mystic Seaport, though no substitute for visiting the museum.  You can see the figurehead on the Joseph Conrad(top photo).

   Currently, the last wooden whaling ship in the world, Charles Morgan, is on shore being refurbished.  You can climb to the top of this huge ship for an amazing view. 

The Charles Morgan is wrapped in plastic

      When we visited Mystic Seaport last May we did just that, and also had great fun with the simulated tug program.  This time we were surprised to see the slightly incongruous, Theodore Tugboat in the harbor, just for a short visit.

    It was a wonderful evening to be out, so it was no surprise that several other kayaks were out as well.  Just a delightful evening paddle.

 * bridge style names range from somewhat accurate to completely made up.

Summary:  Launch Mystic River Hand Carry Launch, 660 River Rd, Groton, CT.  Small dirt pull off and dirt launch.  Launch 5:00PM, finish 7:30PM, 7.4 miles around Dodges Island and back.  Low Tide about 7:00PM