A Different Sort of Race

Wind and threatening skies might deter Mark and I from paddling, but not others.  278 boats, most with multiple paddlers, took on the Kenduskeag Race on Saturday, paddling, carrying and scraping their way along the 16.5 mile course.  It's that sort of dedication which makes the Kenduskeag Race a great rite of Spring!
The day was mostly rain free, but low waters made for a challenging run for the participants, who often had to get out and free their boats.
A few pictures from streamside:

An early kayak heads through

Love their expressions... 

Does Old Town make a four person Loon?  Did the team make this from three separate kayaks?

About half the number of boats from last year, but a good crowd, considering..

A canoeist boosting himself off a rock, probably not for the first time

Gumby! A race tradition! Stuck on a rock - something new!

Having a pusher for low spots was a necessity

Zip Kellogg, standing in his white suit; another tradition

And yes, the low waters did take a toll on the boats, as well as the paddlers:

Congratulations to the finishers!  More complete coverage at the Bangor Daily News and Mike's Kenduskeag Stream Race Site.   You'll especially want to watch video with the race start and scenes along the way to see how much team 131 had been through by the time I got their picture. Kevin Bennett's video, at the Bangor Daily News site, also features Gumby braving 6 Mile Falls and the four person Loon being portaged.  A special congratulations to Ray Wirth on his top five finish!
Ironically, heavy rain is in the forecast for the next few days; if only the dancers had remembered to ask for express delivery....

Pretty Bony....

What a difference a year makes!  Mark in the Kenduskeag Race in 2011:

(Photo courtesy of www.kenduskeagcanoerace.com) Mark's story of the race here.

Approximately the same spot this year:

Last year, on the night before the race we strolled along the Kenduskeag Stream Walk, eying passages, put-ins and take-outs.  As we scouted a steady stream of serious racers paddled by, practicing their routes.  This year there were still a fair number of folks on the stream including this trio headed upstream: 

As we wandered along, some actual river vultures kettled above on the thermals.  Tomorrow those live birds will be joined by hundreds of other river "vultures" hoping to see some canoes and kayaks capsizing.   

It should be a different sort of race than previous years, one for the record books.    We watched as one man pulled his canoe out at the Upper Kenduskeag Stream landing.  "It's as dry as I've seen it in twenty years," he told Mark.  Though he didn't run the entire stream tonight, he wasn't going to miss participating in the contest tomorrow.  It's that sort of loyalty which makes the race a sure sign of spring. And this is probably late, but Ray Wirth offers tips to this years paddlers in his latest post at Waterlines. Good luck to all the participants!

Tracy Pond - At Last!

Not all goals are epic...

April 1 marks the start of open water fishing in Maine, so Jackson Beach, on Hermon Pond had both empty trailers awaiting the return of fishing boats and empty ice fishing shacks awaiting pick up.

Northern Lights Paddle!

(Article by Mark)

I've greatly enjoyed our paddling trips in Florida (see Babybel article) - it's fantastic to paddle someplace warm when your home waters are too frigid for fun (or safe) paddling! As a Greenland-style paddler, I have more problems with the cold than my spouse. Water trickling down a paddle without drip-rings means my hands are continually wet. Even the best gloves don't seem to work for more than an hour or so in freezing conditions.

So I look forward to cheating Mother Nature and paddling in the welcoming warmth of foreign waters. Except for one thing: Kayak rental places do not offer Greenland-style paddles! And at 7' 4” long, they don't fit well in planes or rental cars. The end result is that I end up having to paddle Euro-style which I find more tiring and less enjoyable.

But no more! After considerable research, including reading Gnarlydogs great review, I've recently purchased a Aleut-style carbon-fiber paddle from Northern Lights Paddle (NLP) that breaks down into 3 pieces for packing on a plane or in a rental car. Northern Lights offers two styles of break-down paddle: a traditional Greenland-style and the rather radical Aleut-style. I chose the Aleut-style because it is asymmetrical front to back (it has a convex side and a flat side). Ever since I tried a Wolfgang Brinck asymmetrical paddle at a traditional paddling workshop on Mount Desert Island I've been sold on asymmetrical paddles - and that's how I've been carving my own paddles.

I contacted Paul at NLP by phone, after my initial email got no response (communications have been a bit problematic). He was very helpful in helping me select and order my paddle. It showed up after a couple of weeks and I immediately put it together. It comes with two blades, a central loom piece, a paddle bag, an allen (hex) wrench and four small fasteners. It only takes two fasteners to hold the paddle together so you have two spares - which is a good thing as I can see them getting lost pretty easily. I almost lost one in the living room rug when my fingers fumbled it – if it had been outside in the grass, it probably would be gone for good. Next, out to my workshop to locate a spare hex wrench- this one I bent into a loop so that I could tie it on to the emergency bag.

I've had the paddle in the water a couple of times now (just on the relatively tame waters of the Penobscot until I get used to it) and it's pretty slick. It took me a little while to adjust to the shoulders on the paddle as I've paddled unshouldered for the last few years – however, just like riding a bicycle, it came back to me. I found the carbon-fiber surface to be nicely textured and not overly slippery, both with gloves and without. The paddle is very buoyant and sculls just fine. Extended strokes and sliding strokes worked well too – although the blade is pretty wide and might be a bit much for people with smaller hands. Consider the NLP Greenland-style if that's a concern to you, as it is a bit narrower.

While you can paddle the Aleut paddle with either side as the power face, I find having the more traditional convex side facing me to be my preferred orientation. The weight balance just feels more natural. Paddling with the flat side (actually, slightly concave) facing me, I did find it more like a Euro paddle, with a more positive paddle plant. However, the balance felt off to me, so I don't see myself using it in that orientation regularly. I'll keep it in mind for when I need a burst of power to push through an eddy-line or a wave.

Note that even when disassembled and bagged, the paddle is 36” long – longer than many rolling duffel bags. I've found mention of some 40” long duffel bags online – but I haven't tracked one down and purchased one yet. Maybe I'll get the plane tickets first!

Getting Ready for Summer – Sun Gear

I’m not a sun worshipper. Mostly, I’m a sun avoider and shade seeker; though I did spend one summer basking in the sun at a neighbor’s pool. I was a teenager at the time and desperately trying to fit in. At the end of the summer, after hours of effort, I did develop tan lines, but the “tanned” areas were hardly darker than my friends’ skin had been at the beginning of summer. So while I admire bronzed skin, I have to admit it’s not for me.

Instead of paddling in a swimsuit, I’m out there in a large floppy hat, long sleeved shirt and capris. I’ve even got palm-less gloves from U-Veto to protect the backs of my hands. I use those rather than regular gloves because I’m constantly soaking my sleeves to keep cool and wet gloves cause blisters. For the most part style takes second place to function.

But not since I’ve found Girls4Sports. I first bought one of their rash guards last winter at Amazon. I admired the colorful front, and noted it had both long sleeves and a high neck. I was concerned that it might not have a long enough body for me. I’m a tall woman and not underweight. I’m well aware that many outdoor outfits claiming to be designed for women are, in reality, designed for short people (I’m talking to you, Columbia) Not so with Girls4Sports, their rash guards are a decent length.

Obviously any model can make these clothes look good, but the real proof was when I looked at pictures Mark had taken. Check out this before and after picture.

I’d like to think that I lost weight between them, but really it’s just that Girls4Sports has a better design (though I will also credit the button front capris as being a better fit than the tied waist capris.)

So this winter I’ve picked up two more shirts. Girls4Sports has many beautiful designs, the main challenge is that most have been sold out. I purchased a coral shirt at Girls4Sports, and a Zen Garden design from the SwimOutlet.

Meanwhile Mark has made an even more exciting purchase, but we’ll cover that later…

Sculpted by Nature

Along the shore of the Penobscot ice forms layer by layer.  Thick sheets pushed over as the ice breaker works the river.

 Thin sheets from low temperatures the night before.

 Ice drifts on the current and is pushed to the shores, catching on ancient log structures.

 And small icicles form where streams flow down the sides.

The moving water carves and smooths the ice below, creating fantastic shapes. Though when you look closely, the layering is still evident.

Eventually entire “Seuss-ian” villages are created.

This is the first year we’ve paddled in Maine during February.  February tends to be cold; plus long hours and six day work week give me little opportunity to get out.  In fact, it wasn't I who suggested this paddle, but Mark who insisted from the moment I awoke we'd go paddling; the wind "Wasn't that bad."  (This was last Saturday)  And he was right, though I love my job, it was wonderful to be out beneath the wide open sky, not rushing between my car and a building.  Wonderful to be concentrating on seeing the world around me and sharing its beauty. 

How Babybel Saved the Day

See this picture of Mark perched on the side of a river, beneath some trees? I took it in Florida about three years ago. What’s he doing there? Obviously, he’s ignoring the ubiquitous alligator warning signs. And he’s unconcerned about whatever poisonous snakes might be lurking there.

     Fun fact: Maine is the only state in the continental US without any indigenous poisonous snakes. “Red touch yellow- kill a fellow” is not something we regularly deal with.

Alligators are another dangerous creature absent from Maine waters. Which is no doubt why the outfitter had filled our heads with tales about how lucky we were to get enclosed kayaks. Sit-on-tops, he warned us, allowed the gators easy access and were expected to be banned from rental use.

     I was a bit skeptical about his story. Alligator attacks on people are rare enough; I’ve seen alligator attacks on kayaks only in SyFy original movies. Even so, that didn’t mean we wanted to be lingering at the water’s edge waving our hands about as if we had access to raw chicken.

     But there Mark is, hunched beneath the trees, focused on a twig and distracted from whatever dangers lurk nearby. And all because of misplaced optimism.

     We’d flown to Florida in late May, hoping to enjoy some early season kayaking. We’d arrived to what could not technically be called a hurricane, since hurricane season starts on Memorial Day. It was a system stalled just off shore, dumping rain and wind on the state. Earlier in the year Florida had been suffering from a drought. As the week wore on, first water bans were lifted, then the news was filled with stories of flooding.

     It was not a great week for paddling. We’d had pretty good luck renting boats in the Homosassa and Crystal River area. But when we ventured elsewhere, we spent a day being turned down. Outfitters were closed, or uninterested in renting. Eventually, we’d called an outfitter for a nearby river. He hesitated, most of his boats had already been committed to scouting and similar groups heading out for the Memorial Day weekend. But, if we were willing to compromise, he had a pair of sturdy Pelicans he could rent us, he’d drop us off nine miles upriver and we could call him when we reached the target landing.

     When we showed up at his house in the morning, it was clear he wasn’t lying about the lack of boats. He had several racks out back, but only two pumpkin-seed boats remaining. The seats looked adequate, with a decent upright angle.

     The paddle situation was not good. Just a few paddles left, all crappy beginner paddles. But, as with the start of all outdoor disasters, we figured we’d power through, and selected the best of the bunch.

     Our second harbinger of doom came when we launched. Mark’s boat was missing a foot pedal. The dealer offered to bring us back while he repaired it, or found us a different boat; he’d placed some by distant swimming holes for the upcoming weekend. But we wanted to press on, finish our paddle before the rain started again and move on to a new area. Mark figured he could brace his feet against the sides.

     The outfitter drove off, and we launched into the water.

At the launch

     Just a few minutes later, Mark realized something which should have been obvious at the start. A missing foot pedal means a missing screw in the side of the boat- which means an open hole- which means the boat fills with water.

     So despite the alligators and snakes, Mark headed to shore to drain his kayak and to carve a peg to fill the hole. That slowed the leak down, and allowed us to concentrate on complaining about the paddles for a few miles.

     If you haven’t used a beginner paddle recently, you may have forgotten how unpleasant a cheap paddle can be. Phone books taped to the end of a stick would provide a similar sensation. More depressingly, one of my blades was loose and would shift. Every so often I’d have to stop and twist the blade back into position.

     Never-the-less we paddled on, making it to the pleasant rest area halfway down. We pulled ashore to snack and drain Mark’s boat again.

     Our meal was nothing great, just some food from a local grocery store; apples, Babybel cheeses, water and chips. Enough for a MacGyver moment; Mark took the cheese wax and filled the hole. No more leak! Just turtles, gators and some heavy paddles.

One of several gators; it's probably much bigger than it looks...

We learned several things that day:

1) an unpleasant adventure makes for funnier stories than an ordinary paddle,

2) if an outfitter is reluctant to rent gear, you probably shouldn’t push them,

3) if you’re flying on a paddling vacation, there’s not room for all your gear, but a first aid and repair kit should be a priority, AND

4) always include Babybel cheese in your lunch; it could save your life.

Favorite Day Paddles in Maine

Favorite day paddles in Maine? So hard to choose, Maine’s coastline and islands number in the thousands . There are 250 miles of coastline as the crow flies; over 3,000 as the paddler meanders into every cove and along each peninsula. Maine’s State Planning Office claims 4,613 islands. Still, on one of many recent long car rides, we amused ourselves by trying to select five favorite Maine paddles.

Mark’s choices:

1. Stonington. An easy choice, dozens of islands to paddle by or land on, easy access and parking at Old Quarry Ocean Adventures. There’s generally pretty tame water, especially in the morning. Whether you opt for a long paddle, or a short one, there are plenty of places to see, and there are even options for paddling in the fog. These factors combine to make this a favorite location.

2. Porcupine Islands and Ironbound, off Bar Harbor: Amazing scenery, incredible wildlife, beautiful water with wonderful swells, awesome cliffs. Not many landing points, but there are two, Rum Key and the Hop. This paddle is edged out of the number one spot because parking is limited. This isn’t a location you can just decide to go to, you need to pick a quiet day and get there early. I don’t know if there’s any easy way to park a trailer full of kayaks there. And, as if it isn’t difficult enough already, a new huge hotel is going in. Not only is the parking difficult, but this is a place that requires good judgment. To start with, there’s a lot of boat traffic in the area, all manner of tour boats and cruise ship tenders. Some of the crossings are through major channels, you need to be prepared to cross quickly and efficiently. It’s not a good place to be in the fog. And out alongside the cliffs, or when tempted by keyholes and caves, you need to be able to assess how those swells are going to affect you, and figure out how close you should be. Not a great place for beginners to be on their own. Fortunately there are many kayak tour companies in the area.

3. Muscle Ridge from Birch Point State Park: (no blog post for this) Mark loves open water. This is a two mile crossing to start, with distinct currents. Each time we’ve been there, the weather has been questionable and the wind stronger than expected. These challenges inspire Mark. Many seals, not overcrowded (this was a September launch), easy access. Lighthouses, landing points, and multiple islands.

4. Naskeag Point: This is a beautiful little launch and one of the few which has better access on a Sunday than during the week. The point is made of salmon colored granite pebbles, and from the moment I arrive there and spy Harbor island posted just off shore, I feel ready to paddle and explore. There are a couple of islands nearby owned by the Bureau of Public Lands and additional islands scattered about the area. There are also busy channels nearby, which require concentrated effort to cross. It is a favored area for sailboats, which have right of way. The Naskeag area has a fair number of seals scattered about.

5. Bartlett Island,off MDI. We’ve had some wonderful paddles around this island. Parking is tough, and you should be careful of currents in the narrows. It is a great place to spot seals and harbor porpoise.

My Choices:

1. Stonington

2. Porcupines and Ironbound, off Bar Harbor

3. Lubec or Cobscook Bay. This place has huge tides so if you enjoy looking at the wildlife revealed by low tides, this is the place to go. I’ve found flounder, sea cucumbers, all sorts of sea stars and shellfish. When we paddled from Lubec to Eastport, we went through several schools of herring. It’s a beautiful area. But not a great place if you’re not accustomed to tides. The many narrows have incredible currents running through them. As a whole I feel better referring people to Cobscook Bay and advising them to stay away from the reversing falls area. But I enjoyed the Lubec to Eastport paddle more. 

4. Portland. Come on, there’s a Fort on an island just a half mile off shore! What a great place to bring beginning paddlers! Just a little further out is Peaks Island; with restaurants and ice cream stands. Yes the harbor is hugely busy, and no doubt on the weekends, or a hot summer day the launch is jammed, but time it right and it’s a great place.

5. Little Cranberry or Baker Island, off North East Harbor on Mount Desert Island. I love this area, ticking off islands as we paddle out, exploring along the shores, looking back at the rounded mountains of Acadia, enjoying active water. The crossings are often over a half mile, and usually quite busy. But there are lots of interesting sights. On Baker there is a lighthouse, fairy houses, a graveyard and the Dance floor. On Little Cranberry there's a museum, restaurant, library, and a couple of stores.

Finally, two honorable mentions:

Castine. Castine has an amazing amount going for it; history, quiet coves, tricky currents, multiple islands, seals, interesting boats, even a shipwreck. Again, parking is a challenge and the currents and tides can create problems. Still, it’s a great area.

Rockport to Camden: Camden Harbor is a fun place to explore, but access is tricky. Rockport has a great little launch site, where for a small fee, you get a peaceful beach, a great changing area and a hose for rinsing off when you’re done. The paddle goes along the shore, not generally our preference, though there are two lighthouses, one at the start and the other at the end. What makes it fascinating are the boats in the harbors. On windjammer days Rockport will be filled with huge yachts, and Camden with an incredible array of vessels. Because the paddle is along the shore, it’s not hard to stay out of the way. Camden harbor is busy, but not impossible.

Once we had our lists, it became apparent what we’d used for criteria:

a) Someplace to legally land. I want to sit on an island and eat my lunch.

b) Day trip with easy access. Though most of our ocean paddles are between 7-14 miles, places get extra credit if there are options for interesting shorter trips.

c) It should feel like ocean, the tide should rise and fall, currents should reverse and the water should hop up and down.

d) It shouldn’t be a soaking experience, few breaking waves, no raging currents.

e) As I paddle out, a seal should pop up and wave his flipper at me, and at some point a porpoise should leap over my bow. Or at least there should a seal who pokes his head up in the distance and a bunch of different birds hanging out on the water.

f) The area should have enough coves/islands/inlets to justify using charts and compasses.

If you feel I’ve missed any great paddles please let me know! (Include links if practical) The only thing better than an old favorite is discovering a new one!